It's time to get my car running right again and I need everyone's help.

Ok, everyone, I need help. I am posting this on three different Z32 forums and I'm sure all three of them will be able to help me out in one way or another.

The time for me to fix my car's problems (minus being an NA) is near. My car runs poorly and overheats after driving when it isn't cold/chilly outside.

I want to replace just about everything that has to do with cooling. Here is my parts list of things I'm doing in the job:

1. Z1 Motorsports Dual Electric Fan Setup: http://www.z1motorsports.com/p...=859
$195

2. Z1 NA Radiator: http://www.z1motorsports.com/p...d=70
$175

3. AMS Underdrive Pulley Set: http://www.z1motorsports.com/p...2934
$299 + $45 OEM Nissan belt = $344

4. Nismo Thermostat: http://www.z1motorsports.com/p...1142
$74

5. Z1 Chrome Lower Radiator Hardpipe with Silicone Elbows: http://www.z1motorsports.com/p...1912
$88 + $35 upper radiator hose = $123

6. Nissan OEM Water Pump: Already have; in my garage. $0

7. Nissan OEM Crankshaft/Camshaft Seal: http://www.conceptzperformance...&UID
$6.50 x 2 = $13

8. ARC Titanium Radiator Plate: http://www.nengun.com/arc/titanium-radiator-plate $119.39

9. NGK NA Spark Plugs (PFR6G-11): http://www.z1motorsports.com/p...d=636$11 x 6 = $66

/List.

In reference to #7, are there any other seals that should be replaced while I'm in there?

In reference to #9, I'm getting these because I don't currently run NGKs. And from everything I've ever read, that's a problem .

Is there anything else I need to get to complete this job???


For my next task, please refer to this thread:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/355281

When my car isn't overheating (and when it is overheating), it runs HORRIBLY at least 95% of the time. I ran codes and they should put us in the general direction of what needs to be done to set it straight.

As it says in that thread, I received the following codes from my ECU: 22, 34, 53, and 13.

22: Still clueless as to what that is.

34: Detonation sensor circuit.
Quote, originally posted by evildky »
so 34 means you got a bad knock sensor or the wires or connectors going to it are bad, check the connectors and reset the EUC, if that doesn't clean it up you need a new knock sensor, lots of fun

and
Quote, originally posted by ricky6991 »
34 -just do the resistor trick. once na motors knock they are toast anyways.

I really don't have any idea what either of those mean, so can someone please explain and put it straight forward and simple?

53: Right exhaust gas sensor citcuit.
Quote, originally posted by evildky »
53, yup right side O2 sensor, check connectors, reset ECU and see if ti clears up

,
Quote, originally posted by ricky6991 »
53- alot of pb blaster lol

and
Quote, originally posted by Zwicked »
For the o2 sensor, check to make sure the plug/wiring to it are not broken, but o2 sensor failure is not uncommon.
As a last resort you can try driving it above 3000 RPM for 2 full minutes, that sometimes cleans them, but if not you need to buy a new one, in fact I'd replace them both.

OK, how do I check the connectors? I don't even know where the O2 sensors are. Everytime I'm on the interstate I drive at 3000+RPM for a full 2 minutes, so that's not fixing my problem. If I DO need to replace them, where is the best place to get them? I think AMS makes aftermarket ones. Is it advisable to get them over OEM?

13: Engine coolant temp sensor circuit.
Almost half of the yellow top plug is broken off and the metal bracket that goes around it (like on the MAF plug, but on a smaller scale), is gone. Should I just replace the plug or should I buy an all-new CTS? If it's just the plug, how do I get a newer style plug? A local Nissan tech told me about a newer one, with a blue top, that's better than the older yellow ones.


Anyway, I plan on doing this all at once with the help of local people who know what they're doing rather than attempting it alone or paying high dollar at a shop or Nissan.

I just need some straight up answers about what exactly I NEED to do this. As in, what else do I need for the job? For example, the seals in my list above.

NICO has helped me many times before and has taught me so much, so I'm sure you can all help me out here .

Also, FWIW, I'm taking off my ebay strut bar and my current mods are only JWT Popcharger and HKS Hiper exhaust. After I do this job, I plan on getting an aluminum one-piece driveshaft from either Z1 or AMZ and a Specialty Z X-pipe. Also, HIDs and tint, of course. Oh, and an ASHSpec ECU with the 2-program switch. I spoke with him on AIM and he told me that I actually need the NA ECU for my future TT swap so it will match up to the fuel pump controller, and that I'll just need a new chip and switch when I do the conversion. From what I understand, after all of this is done, I'll have all the "recommended go-fast goodies" for the NA and it will be better than ever. Minus headers, which I won't buy because those definitely won't swap . /Tangent.

Thanks.

P.S. Reid, are you still willing to help out on this one? I'd appreciate it big time!

damm you sure are doing that thing over. i think its great your tackling it yourself.
if going that far though.. why not pull the whole thing and freshen up ALL seals/sensors etc?

since you know reid now.. ask him about his spark plug snafu
i'd do those first and then get right back to us on how it runs.

nismo300zr2 wrote:

damm you sure are doing that thing over. i think its great your tackling it yourself.
if going that far though.. why not pull the whole thing and freshen up ALL seals/sensors etc?

since you know reid now.. ask him about his spark plug snafu
i'd do those first and then get right back to us on how it runs.

thanks. what do you mean "pull the whole thing"? you don't mean the whole motor do you? if that's the case, i don't have that money or skill, and if i was doing that i might as well do the TT swap now lol.

spark plug snafu....

P.S. thanks for making it viewable ! threw me off a little haha

Knock sensor - I would NOT do the resistor trick. You can buy an new knock sensor pretty cheap off ebay and get a new harness, then relocate the knock sensor to another part of the block that's more accessible.

Here's the det relocation FAQ on tt.net.

If I may be so bold to make a few suggestions. Fell free to take or leave my advice as you see fit.

First off have you ran a PSI test on your cooling system? You should be able to rent a tester from most auto part stores. It simply snaps on to your radiator and allows you to pump air into the system to see if it will hold pressure. It should also have a an adaptor to test the cap too. If all that is good what is your antifreeze mixture are you running I run 50/50 water to coolant in NC but I am thinking of going to 60/40 when I am finished with my build I know the new GTR is running 70/30 just wanted to throw that out there. Also do you know if your auxiliary fan is working? It’s the electrical fan in front of your AC condenser so with the car off see if you can spin it freely. If it spins but is not working with the car running unplug the large plug from the sensor on the water pipe and see if it turns on and if not check to see if it is getting power at the fan plug“12v”aprx . if all of this checks out and problems still continue you may need to wash out the fins on both the radiator and AC condenser along with clear out any leafs, dead bugs, road trash ect the may be in front or in between them. If overheating continues you may have major problems but seeing how you are saying you can drive when its cooler out I think I have probably coved just about everything it can be. Let us know what you uncover.

Now for your take on replacement parts I took the time to walk you through proper trouble shooting of the system so this way you might not have to replace a part that you may have to replace again when you convert to TT “like your radiator” In regards to the electrical fan setup you may free up a little power but its not going to be anything amazing and the OEM fan will provide better cooling. Z1’s NA radatior is only a little bit better then the OEM one. I will actually start working on some plans I came up with over the past few month something better NA crew. If you are interested in testing let me know should have a few test units by late Feb. It wont be a free bee but I may let test units go at cost.
The AMS pulley set well it wont help keep you cooler but will free up some power and will allow your engine to rev quicker.
Nismo thermostat will be a complete waste of money on an NA just stick with the OEM one.
Personally I recommend the solid silicone radiator hose just for the simple fact the hard pipe has more clamps and brakes so more places coolent might leak from.

When you replace the water pump if you have the means to use a Dermal or die grinder there is some exes casting you can cut. I have attached a few pics I know its hard to tell in these pics but you will see what I am talking about when you take the old pump off. The hole on the left side of the pump has a lot of exes casting that can be cut away helping the system flow better.
http://www.gz-performance.com/Tech/Reid/reid709.jpg
http://www.gz-performance.com/Tech/Reid/reid710.jpg

#9 Yes get NGK plugs. Also be sure your base timing is set to 15` TDC

Well I will comment on everything else when I have more time I got to get going hope what I have brought to the table will help. Take it easy – Tony

Well, I haven't updated this in a while. Sorry! Tony, thanks for all that great info. I'll definitely refer back to threads like this because of posts like that. Since this post, I installed NGKs. Man, that was a BITCH. Maybe just the back two on the right when looking at the engine (IDK the #s). Especially that one far back one. DAMN. I was told to gap them at .044 so that's what I did. I also replaced the coolant temp sensors for the ECU and gauge. Wasn't going to replace the one for the gauge, but I accidentally ordered that instead of the yellow plug for the wiring harness. Oops. But later on, I interviewed Coz for a business paper (very nice guy) and ordered the yellow plug at the end of the call. Yesterday, with REID's over-the-phone help, I replaced it. I didn't solder it because 1. I was in a hurry and 2. I had never done it before. Sometime when Reid's back in Bama he's going to help me out with that. So don't worry, it will be soldered on!!! It looks pretty tacky now and he said it wouldn't last as long, so it IS temporary.

Any difference? After I installed the plugs, absolutely not. Lame. I had Bosch plugs before. After installed the sensors, yes. Big time. Ran a LOT better and didn't overheat at all. At first that is. I drove all over Montgomery, loving it, then to Auburn. All the way there, it was FINE. Driving back to Montgomery, I had problems. It overheated, but only slightly. Same with the way back up to Auburn after I installed the new yellow connector. And yes, I pulled over to let it cool. I probably won't drive it back to Montgomery again until I know the problem is fixed (I have a Jeep to drive too).

So, I was thinking that for the next step I'm going to have my radiator flushed/refilled at this local auto shop. I'd do it myself, but I don't know how and I have this thing that makes it free (minus coolant). So, if they don't know what they're doing, should I tell them half antifreeze and half water? Isn't that right?

If that doesn't help, I'll probably get a new radiator from Z1 or maybe Koyo. They seem similar, but if I need to I'll get some opinions. Koyo's a little pricier, but not much. Both 2-row, and I don't know what that means. Can someone explain? I assume it's better. I know OEM is 1-row.

Well, there's my update . And thanks Reid.

when you start getting that fatter radiator you will likely lose your fan shroud therefore making your clutch fan pretty much useless. Another upgrade to electric fan(s) would be ideal with a big radiator.

I do run a thick PWR allum radiator though with PREDILUTED antifreeze and watter wetter. i ran for laps hard at the track with no overheat problems even w/o a fan shroud using the OEM clutch fan.

electric fans are a downgrade,everyone has issues with them on these cars.and have you checked to see if your head gaskets are blown yet?..

Blacktwin wrote:

have you checked to see if your head gaskets are blown yet?..

no. check the thread on aspeed. just updated it a minute ago.

Blacktwin wrote:

electric fans are a downgrade,everyone has issues with them on these cars.and have you checked to see if your head gaskets are blown yet?..

i've seen a few of those arguments on 3ZC and have a hard time believing an elec fan with it own shroud right on the rad is NOT moving more air than an unshrouded rad trying to get air from the OEM clutch fan.

nismo300zr2 wrote:

Blacktwin wrote:

electric fans are a downgrade,everyone has issues with them on these cars.and have you checked to see if your head gaskets are blown yet?..

i've seen a few of those arguments on 3ZC and have a hard time believing an elec fan with it own shroud right on the rad is NOT moving more air than an unshrouded rad trying to get air from the OEM clutch fan.

even ash's design for them with a custom shroud never really cooled right.i'm more on the side of "if it aint broke don't fix it"

Flushing out your cooling system is relatively easy. First Have you actually pulled the thermostat out looked at it and tested it yet? If you pull your radiator cap off when your Z is running can you see coolant moving or is it just sitting stagnant even at normal or high operating temp? “ do not remove the cap when the engine is hot.”
Also check your head gaskets to see that might be a problem. There are a few tests to see if everything is ok some are easer then others.

1 check your tail pipes do you see any white smoke or excusive moister coming out.
2 Let you Z run but before everything starts gets hot take your radiator cap off and ensuring your coolant level is full. Now when the temp gauge is in the middle look and see if there are excessive bubbles and or little black tadpoles rising up and out of the coolant.
3 Check your oil after shutting down and see if it looks like it has milk in it?
If all of the above turn out good the only thing left to check is compression. Let me put it this way if you had a hard time changing out your spark plugs then you will probably sure out everything that you hold sacred if you go in to do a compression test. I would not really recommend you do one unless you finde some tell tail signs in the first tests.

Flushing, changing and cleaning of your coolant system.

1 go to local auto parts store and get a large drain pan, 1 bottle of Preston or equivalent “radiator flush”, along with your coolant and redline water wetter or royal purple Ice.

2 Jack up the front of the Z and remove the engine splash shield “if you still have one”. Now remove the radiator cap and then the drain cock from the bottom if you want to be carful and don’t want to spill coolant everywhere. If you just want to get it out and over remove the lower radiator hose with the coolant collection bucket directly under the opening. It will make a mess but it won’t take ½ hour to drain. Remove the top radiator hose then remove the two 10mm bolts “1 on each side” that hold the top of the radiator retaining brackets in place. Now all you have to do is remove the over flow tube and the lower fan shroud with is normally missing or just pulls right off. Now just pull the radiator straight up and out.

3 Remove the shroud and wash out the core “outside cooling surface” with a hose so that water will just pass right through. Inspect for bent fins, large amounts miscellaneous substance and packed in gunk that may have worked its way into the core, cracks and surface corrosion. Also be sure to wash out the core of the AC condenser while you have the radiator out check and inspect for all the same things.

4 Before installing give you clutch fan a good once over. Check it for play up down left and right. Inspect the fan blades for damage and see if the clutch fan will move when force is applied. It should move a little bit but not free spin. If you have not checked or replace your thermostat now is a good time seeing how you have easy accesses to the bottom water pipe.

Reinstall the shroud then the radiator being sure to install all hoses brackets and tighten all clamps. Fill the radiator with the flush and regular water now run the engine till it gets hot and ad water as required until the radiator stays full. Keep an eye on the temp gauge once its reaches operating temp you may need to ad yet more water. After running for 15 to 20 min assuming everything is running at normal temp. Shut down and allow ½ hour or more for everything to cool off and drain the flush mixture. More than likely it will look nasty. Now seal everything up and get ready for round 2. Fill the radiator up with warm water from the bath tub or something “you don’t want to chance using cold water and making stress cracks in anything.” Repeat this process at the minimum of 2 times to get rid of all the acid in the cooling system but I recommend doing it as many times as necessary until the water drains out clear. How you dispose of the old coolant and water is up to you and or your local restrictions for disposing of antifreeze. But after the 2nd flushes it should be safe enough to just dump it some where out of the way. Once everything looks good refill your radiator with your coolant, water wetter and distilled water to your desired mixture. You will fell better if you do it your self and you will know that the job was completed correctly. Hope this helps some take care and happy new year – Tony

your welcome man, i just thought id throw in my ten cents on the electric fan bit. Dont do it stick with the other fan and do everything you can to keep your shroud if that means custom fitting it if you decide to go with a bigger radiator. I didnt have my shroud off long enough to tell but i did read on ash's web page that removing the shroud can reduce cooling by 50% of the fans origial efficiancy. I can never remember his name, and some people are not exactly fans of the guy, <coughnatecough> but he had a similar radiator to the Koyo (given this is on a TT) and he is running about 700hp. with the stock belt fan and that radiator, right after driving, the car had been sitting for maybe 30 minutes and i could put my hand on his plentium and keep it there feeling only warmth not what i expected to be a skalding hot plentium under my hand. an hour after i turn my car off i can put my hand on my plentium and it wont be as cool as his was, needless to say im sticking with the stock clutch fan and getting a koyo or similar design. and this was on a warm day too, the day of the 2008 triangle Z show.

wut R u tAlkinG abouttt??? DAN is my HERO!!!

aint that right Dan? i know your @$$ is lurking around.

i mean.. didnt you see how he reserved that spot at the show just for me right next to his 'PerfectPaint' Z? how rude of his own club members to take the spot before i could offload!

lol need to get up with you nate about your chrome plentum trade we talked about, hell maybe one of these days i can buy your seats if you havnt already sold them

they are still sitting in the car which has been sitting in the garage...

what about the chrome plentium??? I'm getting ready to pull and clean the hell out of mine as well as do my pcv valves again. I need to do the EGR delete and i want to put a new knock sensor on the car all at the same time. Dont know when im going to find the time to do all this but after the 14th ill be wide open till the 30th so prolly then.

So next wed is the meet then? Time place?

Deleting your egr on the car is very hard !!!! Make sure your car is not California model, if it is dont mess with the egr.

its chipped to Federal emissions so as far as i know the 93 motor thats in it isnt a cali motor, supposably its a jdm. what kind of troubles should i expect?

Its not the motor but the ecu If you have cali. ECU you have a temp censor on the EGR it can be by passed with a resister. Alot of shops swap Cali cars with jdms that don't have that censor and the check engine lite never goes away. I'v had to fix that one so many times its not funny.

That little sensor on the EGR valve also showed up on later year Z's too. My 95TT has one and there is also one on a 95NA engine that I am putting in my project 91NA. The sensor is no big deal and can simply be turned off in the ECU programming. Read there is no need to worry your engine has the EGR with no sensor and I am sure JWT did everything right when they did your chip.

Its not a big deal but who dont know it is. Its only in cali. cars and then in 95+ motors and OBDII, but yeah if your ECU is moded nothing to worry about!

I'm sure you know the diff. in 95 motor to 91 Zs when swapping

Yes I know the ins and outs, the little odds and ends to make everything drag, drop, plug and play when it comes to motor swaps. It was also what I just had extra laying around considering then engine I pulled out was not runing and I did not even feel like putting it back together just to see how many probablems it might have had.

thanks for the info the both of you. Hopefully ill get to the egr delete when i removed the plentium AGAIN that is of course if i need to after i do that fuel check we discussed tony. I got my drive shaft today, so i have all i need to help my rear end out. I hope to tear it down tomorrow and throw all the new goodies up there, wish me luck with the diff bushings.

good luck man! let me know how much difference the driveshaft makes! that's one of the next things on the list after all the stuff we've been talking about.