What did you do to your car today?!

I installed my Woody short shifter (a guy on TT.NET makes them) and I also installed my HKS SSQV BOV's.

rojoloco wrote:

I installed my Woody short shifter (a guy on TT.NET makes them) and I also installed my HKS SSQV BOV's.

are you running them in the engine bay or where the stock recircs were?

cherryz wrote:

Fortunately (or unfortunately?) the problem disappeared as when I fired it up later Saturday after sitting in the garage with the hood up, it ran smooth as ever. So I either have a connection that doesn't like high humidity or a failing injector....

Back again this morning.... Argh!

yesterday i cleaned up the turbos, and today i finshed cleaning the remainder of the parts, minus the dust build up on the flywheel which i will get to right before i put it back on. Packed up everything to go to the shop to build the block, and machined out the front bridge to make install of the newer style injectors possible on the chrome plenum and welded up the egr holes. Also installed the barb fittings to the intake valve covers and re attached the inner shields for the PCV valve re route. Hopefully as soon as tomorrow i could start putting my block together, but at the latest i should be starting on the internals friday.

nismo300zr2 wrote:

rojoloco wrote:

I installed my Woody short shifter (a guy on TT.NET makes them) and I also installed my HKS SSQV BOV's.

are you running them in the engine bay or where the stock recircs were?

I just mounted them in the stock recirc location.

tinkered around a bit more.. i have a HUGE leak now
that releases pressure after 1.5psi. with the car running, it sounds like a hose blown or something not connected when letting off the thrott.
instead of my BOVs honking, you can hear it pshhh out the rear of the engine

May not need soapy water for that... How about confetti?

i was thinking of baby powdering it.. dunno how bad it would stick though. im dreading the mess.

Yesterday i finished cleaning and re mounting the fmic. Today i replaced my brakes with some new pads and adjusted my e-brake and remounted the front bumper. Tomorrow i hope to finish up degreasing some parts of the wiring harness and clean up the starter as well as anything else i can find to do such as touch up the engine bay with some zip ties in those areas that are hard to get to. Sunday i hope to get my engine back and get to building it up and hopefully by wednesday ill have it dropped back into the car....only time will tell.

Where did you get your pads? I need new rear pads (street only)....

Installed my newly painted Border Racing vented hood and Stillen vented nose panel. I'll post pics later.

Honestly i picked the new pads up from Z1 with some core credit i got, but the stock pads i took off from the rear had almost zero wear on them. They have some rust on them, ill take some pics of them and you tell me what you think

Today i got to finish cleaning my wiring harnesses and connectors, replaced the battery terminals and re rapped alot of the exposed wiring with new electric tape and plastic sheathing. Remounted the front bumper, started tightening up the engine bay as much as possible using small zip ties to pull back some of the wires not to mention put new clamps to replace the flemsy stock ones with stainless steel ones. Supposed to get the block tomorrow but probably wont be till monday. crossing my fingers for tomorrow...

well yesterday i fixed my passenger door handle, replaced the vent on the interior on the passenger door as well as re fit the speaker cover on that side and reinstalled the interior piece properly, wow it looks so much better in there....that is if you ignore the boxes of replacement fluids, misc parts, and wadded up shop towels and soda cans that have accumulated through the intirety of this project lol.

Today unfortunatly i didnt accomplish much. Although i did get up with Z1 about the parts i ordered and there core i sent in and got my money refunded to me. I used the store credit to purchase some Tein S springs (dont judge me, for less than 200 bucks i got my front end look i was looking for and didnt have to do any body mods and besides until i learn to handle the car where she is now i cant begine to use what a coil over system can provide me in the future, that little piece of wisdom curtisy of Nate) I also picked up ES front and rear sway bar bushings, steering rack bushings (pair) and some polyurathane shock boots to replaced the warn out stock ones, all in black. Hopefully ill reciece all this by this thursday and have it all installed by friday, weather permitting.

last night i replaced a burnt main power cable in the engine bay."yes i know i'm lucky as hell nothing was damaged"some ass hat at broadway thought it was okay to let it lay on the downpipe when installing it.fixed the cruise control problem,wired up the water temp gauge fittings,and tested the new heater core.

sweet deal man i had a similar problem to your burnt power cable except it was more my mistake. I zip tied some cables together and thought i had tucked them away good enough, well apparently i hadnt and one of them came loose and flopped down onto my downpipes melting away all the protection. I have since cleaned the whole wiring harness and re rapped it with some new materials to protect it from the elements, but gotta say it was exactly the best feeling. By the way what method of break in did you use for your motor, seeing as ill be breaking mine in hear pretty soon?

well i'm still breakin it in but my method is .1 start-up let it get to operating temp while checking all the connections and vac lines.then shut it off and change the oil.then drive it like a grandma for about 10 to 20 miles then change the oil again. then again at 50 miles and once more at 500 miles by then your motor should be pretty broken in. i have about 400 miles until i throw mine on the dyno.plus a friend and i are going to make our own belly pans for the front of the car. i haven't gotten around to the flower pots yet.buti know they won't do any good until i seal up the bottom.

Blacktwin wrote:

well i'm still breakin it in but my method is .1 start-up let it get to operating temp while checking all the connections and vac lines.then shut it off and change the oil.then drive it like a grandma for about 10 to 20 miles then change the oil again. then again at 50 miles and once more at 500 miles by then your motor should be pretty broken in. i have about 400 miles until i throw mine on the dyno.plus a friend and i are going to make our own belly pans for the front of the car. i haven't gotten around to the flower pots yet.buti know they won't do any good until i seal up the bottom.

the method that tony suggested to me was 1 start the car reach operating temp and run the car for 100 miles, change the oil. 2 run the car for 500 miles changes the oil 3 run the car to 1000 miles change the oil. 4 run the car till 2000 miles change the oil then resume normal 3000 mile service. I like the way your method sounds, i think i might mix the two just to make sure i do it right.

Got some done today, cleaned my 6 puck clutch disk, pressure plate, and flywheel cleaned and did some light sanding to the contact surfaces, Sanded and re painted the oil pan with some high temp engine enamel (black), smoothed the gasket surfaces of my lower plenum down from the ruff surface created when i had it sandblasted and powder coated, and went to a couple engraving places all over town before finally locating one that would do what i wanted to my solid czp radiator bracket. here is the result...

DAMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM!!!!







today i lowered the front end.. took half the 'time attack' tape off, and leak tested once again only to get frustrated in trying to locate it -.-

im gonns go drive the piss outta it right now and maybe blow what ever is leaking open some more to make it obvious to me

Nice, Reid! That is awesome. Props to Christina for a place someone would engrave on their car, ha!
Next the tat...

So anyway, I did figure out tonight I've lost power on #6 so taking it to Clay (TTVert) tomorrow for the rubdown. Hopefully can get it fixed w/o pulling the plenum, I'm sure Evan will say that if anyone can do it Clay can so I'm looking forward to some actual experience with my engine since I've barely scratched the surface with it so far...

Good luck on finding your leak, Nate!

Thanks to everyone for the props...I dont know i just really like it on here. I know alot of the people, or have met them at one point or another, and i feel like i actually have a voice here unlike some other places. Next step, make me some buisness cards once the car is all back together. Steven Walton Photography is gunna take me some good pics for an exchange in parts he needs so once i get around to that im sure ill post the pics as well as a sample of the buisness card for all to see More updates when i have them

I held the flashlight while Clay dremeled out my #6 injector for replacement. Pulled into his garage, and 90 minutes later I'm firing on all 6 again. Thanks, Clay!!! Feels SO much better now...

I was excited about getting all my cylinders firing so I spent some time this evening giving my engine bay some TLC.
Did a very minor upgrade....

very nice. congrats!

was cover always silver and black? how'd you turn the red strip black?

very nice indeed

I did manage to clean the tranny a little more and degrease the throw out fork and wipe off some of the carbon build up off of the throw out bearing. NO i did not degree the thow out bearing. Went to Tony's place to see his latest sub frame rebuild project and was upset to learn i still have work to do on my lifters but no worries i got nothing to do until tuesday when my package of suspension goodies shows up and i can start installing those. In the mean time ill CORRECTLY rebuild my lifters and clean them up to drop in to the heads this upcoming thursday